0.44 CT Round Ruby Faceted Ring in 18kt White Gold

This vintage style ruby ring sets a 0.44 carat round ruby in four prongs above an 18kt white gold band with channel-set diamonds along both shoulders and scrolled filigree openwork beneath the head. Twenty diamonds, about 0.30 carats in total, frame the ruby with a line of white light. Everything below describes this exact ring, which you can see and try on at our Boca Raton showroom.

The vintage style ruby ring at a glance

Here are the specifications of this vintage style ruby ring, as recorded for this piece.

The center stone is a round faceted ruby of 0.44 carats, a vivid, slightly pinkish red, held in four prongs on a raised head.

Along each shoulder runs a channel of small round diamonds. There are twenty in all, about 0.015 carats each, graded G color, and the band is stamped with their total weight of 0.31 carats. A small diamond also sits at each side of the head. Together with the ruby, the ring carries about 0.75 carats of gemstones.

The metal is 18kt white gold, stamped 18K inside the band. Beneath the head, the gallery is pierced with scrolling openwork, and the edges of the band are finished with fine milgrain. The ring can be sized to fit.

In short, it is a ruby ring with the detail and romance of vintage design, built for everyday wear.

A ruby ring with vintage character

What gives this ring its vintage feel is the detail. The band carries fine milgrain along its edges, a line of tiny beads pressed into the metal that has been used to finish fine jewelry for more than a century.

Below the head, the gallery is pierced with scrolling filigree, curls of gold that let light reach the ruby from beneath and give the side profile a delicate, lace-like look.

And the diamonds on the shoulders sit in channels rather than prongs, a clean and secure setting that recalls classic mid-century rings.

Together these details make a vintage style ruby ring that feels timeless rather than retro: romantic in its detail, but crisp and clean in its lines.

Vintage style or genuine vintage?

It is worth being precise. This is a vintage style ruby ring: it uses traditional details such as milgrain, filigree and channel-set diamonds, but it is not described as an antique.

That distinction has real advantages. A vintage style ruby ring gives you the romance and detail of older jewelry together with modern construction, crisp settings and an 18kt white gold band in excellent condition.

If you love the look of older jewelry but want a ring built for everyday wear today, a vintage style piece is often the best of both worlds.

Milgrain, explained

Milgrain, from the French for a thousand grains, is a row of tiny beads pressed into the edge of the metal with a small wheeled tool. It softens hard edges, catches the light and gives a ring a hand-finished, heirloom quality.

On this ring, milgrain runs along the edges of the diamond channels, framing each line of diamonds like a fine border. It is one of the details that turns a simple channel set ruby ring into a piece with real character.

Ruby or pink sapphire?

Ruby and pink sapphire are the same mineral, corundum. When corundum is red enough, it is called ruby; when it is lighter or pinker, it is called pink sapphire.

The center stone of this ring is recorded as a ruby. It is a vivid pinkish red, and in person the red reads clearly, especially against the white gold and diamonds.

The ruby: 0.44 carats of vivid red

The center stone is a round faceted ruby of 0.44 carats. Its color is a vivid red with a slightly pinkish tone, bright and lively under both daylight and indoor light.

Ruby is a variety of corundum, the same mineral as sapphire, and ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond. That makes it one of the most practical colored gems for a ring worn every day. The Gemological Institute of America describes ruby as one of the most valued of all colored gems.

Color is the most important factor in a ruby's value. The most prized rubies are a pure red to slightly purplish or pinkish red, with strong saturation and a tone that is not too dark, and this stone sits comfortably in that range.

Most rubies on the market have been heated to improve their color and clarity, a permanent and widely accepted practice. The written appraisal records what is known about this stone.

A filigree ruby ring

Filigree is one of the most beautiful techniques in jewelry, and it is what makes this a filigree ruby ring. Originally it meant fine wire twisted into lacy patterns; today the term also describes pierced, scrolling openwork like the gallery on this ring.

On this filigree ruby ring, the openwork sits beneath the head and along the inner shoulders. From above you see the ruby and diamonds; from the side, you see a pattern of curls and openings that makes the ring look light and intricate.

The openwork also has a practical purpose. It lets light into the ruby from below, so the stone glows more brightly than it would on a solid base, and it keeps the head light and comfortable.

It is the kind of detail that rewards a close look, and that most people only notice after they have worn the ring for a while.

The scrollwork also changes the ring's character from different angles. Seen from above, it is a clean, classic ruby ring; turned to the side, it reveals a delicate pattern of curves that makes it feel handmade and personal. That dual nature is part of why a ring like this is so often chosen as a keepsake, a ring that is worn every day but still has something new to notice years later.

A channel set ruby ring

The diamonds on the shoulders of this channel set ruby ring are set in channels: they sit edge to edge in a narrow track of gold, held by the walls on either side rather than by prongs.

A channel set ruby ring has real advantages for everyday wear. The gold walls protect the edges of every diamond, and there are no prongs to snag on clothing or wear down over time.

The channel also creates a clean, continuous line of sparkle that leads the eye straight to the ruby. With the milgrain edges on either side, each channel looks like a finely framed strip of light.

The diamonds are graded G color, near-colorless, so they face up bright white against the white gold and make the ruby look richer by contrast. Our guide to diamond color explains the grading scale.

Why 18kt white gold

This ring is made in 18kt white gold, which is 75 percent pure gold, richer in gold than 14kt. It has a satisfying weight on the hand and a bright white finish that makes both the ruby and the diamonds stand out.

White gold is a crisp frame for red stones. The cool metal makes the ruby look deeper and more saturated, and it keeps the diamonds looking as white as possible.

White gold is usually finished with rhodium for a bright white surface. Over time the rhodium can wear, and a quick re-plating restores it; we can do that in our store.

A ruby anniversary ring

Ruby is the traditional gift for a 40th wedding anniversary, and red has long been associated with love and passion. That makes this a natural ruby anniversary ring, whether for a 40th or any milestone you want to mark with color.

The vintage details give it the feel of an heirloom from the day it is given, and the practical channel setting means it can be worn every day for the next forty years.

Ruby is also the birthstone for July, so it makes a meaningful birthday gift for anyone born in midsummer. Paired with a card that explains the symbolism of the stone, it becomes a gift with a story as well as sparkle.

A ruby promise ring

A promise ring marks a commitment without the formality of an engagement ring. This ring suits that role beautifully: it is romantic, distinctive and substantial enough to feel significant.

As a ruby promise ring, it carries the long symbolism of ruby as a stone of love and devotion. It can later be worn on the right hand, or stacked beside an engagement ring, so it stays part of the story.

It also works as an alternative engagement ring for someone who prefers color to a white diamond. If you are considering it for a proposal, bring in a ring your partner already wears so we can check the size, and we can talk through whether the ring should be resized before or after the big day.

How to wear a vintage style ruby ring

A vintage style ruby ring like this works on almost any finger. On the ring finger it reads as an engagement or promise ring; on the right hand it becomes a striking everyday piece.

It pairs beautifully with a slim white gold band, and a milgrain band on either side would echo the details on the shoulders.

For a coordinated look, add ruby or diamond studs. For a more eclectic stack, pair it with a thin diamond band and a plain gold ring.

Stacking a vintage style ruby ring

The slim, milgrain-edged band makes this ring easy to stack. A plain white gold band beside it keeps the look classic; a thin milgrain band echoes its detail; a slim diamond band adds a line of sparkle.

Because the head is a single ruby rather than a wide halo, straight bands sit close to it, so a stack of two or three rings stays neat and comfortable.

A thoughtful gift

As a ruby anniversary ring, a ruby promise ring or a July birthday gift, this ring suits many occasions. Its vintage details make it feel special from the moment it is opened, and ruby's durability means it can be worn every day.

If you are buying as a surprise, borrow a ring the recipient already wears on the same finger to check the size, or ask us about resizing after purchase.

How to judge a ruby ring in person

Start with the ruby. Look at it in daylight and under indoor light; a fine ruby stays a rich, lively red in both.

Next, look closely at the channels. The diamonds should be evenly sized and sit level, with no gaps, and the milgrain edges should be crisp.

Then turn the ring and look at the filigree gallery from the side. The openwork should be clean and smooth.

Finally, put it on. A ring always looks different on the hand, and seeing the ruby against your own skin is the best test of color.

Caring for your filigree ruby ring

Clean the ring in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, brush gently along the channels, around the head and through the openwork with a soft toothbrush, rinse and pat dry. Our jewelry care guide has more detail.

Take it off for the gym, gardening and heavy cleaning, and have the prongs checked from time to time. We offer complimentary cleaning and inspection for jewelry bought from our store.

Seeing this vintage style ruby ring in Boca Raton

Ruby color is best judged in person. You are welcome to try this vintage style ruby ring on at our Boca Raton showroom and look at the ruby, the channels and the filigree under a loupe.

We are open Monday to Friday, 9:30 to 5:30, and Saturday, 10:30 to 4:30. Directions are on our Visit Us page.

David Stern Jewelers has served Boca Raton for over 40 years. David Stern is a GIA Graduate Gemologist, so detailed questions about the ruby and diamonds can be answered on the spot.

Sizing, appraisal and insurance

This ring can be sized to fit. Because the shoulders carry channel-set diamonds and the gallery is pierced, we will look at it with you and confirm how far it can be sized before any work is done.

It includes a written jewelry appraisal by David Stern, which describes the ruby, the diamonds and the gold and gives a replacement value for insurance.

More ruby rings

See our round ruby engagement ring, our ruby flower ring or our vintage ruby engagement ring, or browse all our rings.

Questions about this vintage style ruby ring