Vintage Ruby and 1.00 CT Old Cut Diamond Engagement Ring in 18kt Yellow Gold

This vintage ruby engagement ring is an estate piece in 18kt yellow gold. An oval ruby sits at the center in fine yellow gold claws, surrounded by a cluster of old-cut diamonds, 1.00 carat in total, in white settings. The slender yellow gold band lets the red and white head take all the attention. It is a pre-owned ring, and everything below describes this exact piece, which you can see and try on at our Boca Raton showroom.

The vintage ruby engagement ring at a glance

Here is what this vintage ruby engagement ring is made of, as recorded for this piece.

The center stone is an oval ruby of deep red with a slightly purplish tone, held in slender yellow gold claws.

Around it is a single ring of ten old-cut round diamonds, 1.00 carat in total, graded I color and I3 clarity. The diamonds sit in white metal settings, a traditional way of making them look as white as possible against the yellow gold.

The band is 18kt yellow gold, slim and tapering, with fine grooved shoulders where it meets the head.

This is an estate ring, meaning it has had a previous owner. It comes with a written appraisal.

Why a ruby engagement ring

Ruby has been a symbol of love and passion for centuries. Its red is the color of the heart, and for many couples that makes a ruby engagement ring feel more personal and expressive than a colorless diamond.

Ruby is also one of the most practical colored stones for everyday wear. It is a variety of corundum, the same mineral as sapphire, and ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond. The Gemological Institute of America describes ruby as one of the most valued of all colored gems.

A red center with a ring of diamonds is one of the most recognizable engagement ring designs there is, and it has been worn for well over a hundred years.

If you want something classic but not ordinary, a vintage ruby engagement ring sits exactly in that space.

A ruby halo ring with old-cut diamonds

The center ruby is surrounded by a halo of ten diamonds, which makes this vintage ruby engagement ring a ruby halo ring in the traditional sense, sometimes called a cluster ring. Each diamond is individually set, so the border forms a soft, scalloped flower shape around the oval.

The diamonds are old cuts, recorded for this piece as round rose cuts. Older cutting styles like these have larger facets and a softer, more romantic sparkle than modern round brilliants, with broad flashes of light rather than fine glitter.

That is what makes this an old cut diamond cluster ring rather than a modern halo. The diamonds look hand-cut, because older cutting styles were, and they give the ring the gentle glow that people love in antique jewelry.

The diamonds are graded I color and I3 clarity. I3 means their inclusions can be seen without magnification, which is common in older cuts; in a cluster of small stones around a strong red center, the overall effect is warm sparkle rather than individual flaws. Our guide to diamond color explains the grading scale.

The antique style engagement ring setting

Everything about the construction of this antique style engagement ring follows traditional design. The ruby is held in fine yellow gold claws, while the diamonds sit in white settings on top of the cluster. Setting diamonds in white metal on a yellow gold ring was a hallmark of fine jewelry in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, because it made the diamonds look whiter.

The cluster is raised on a small gallery above the band, so light can reach the stones from the sides. The shoulders of the band are finely grooved where they meet the head, a small but elegant detail.

The band itself is slim and gently tapered, which keeps the ring comfortable and makes the head look larger by contrast.

These are the details that give an antique style engagement ring its character: the mixed metals, the hand-set cluster and the refined proportions.

Why a yellow gold ruby ring

Red and yellow gold is one of the richest pairings in jewelry. Warm gold deepens the red of a ruby and gives the whole ring a glowing, traditional look, while the white settings keep the diamonds crisp.

This yellow gold ruby ring is made in 18kt gold, which is 75 percent pure gold, with the deeper, buttery color that 18kt is known for. It never needs replating the way white gold does.

A yellow gold ruby ring also pairs easily with wedding bands. A slim plain yellow gold band sits comfortably beside the cluster, and a thin diamond band adds sparkle.

Because the band is slim, stacking is easy, and the ring suits both small and larger hands.

How ruby color is judged

Color is the most important factor in a ruby's value. Gemologists look at three things: hue, the basic color; tone, how light or dark it is; and saturation, how intense it is.

The most prized rubies are a pure red to slightly purplish red, of medium to medium-dark tone, with strong saturation. Stones that lean toward orange or brown, or that are too dark to show their color, are valued less.

The ruby in this vintage ruby engagement ring sits in the classic range: a deep red with a purplish undertone, dark enough to feel rich and bright enough to glow when light hits it.

Clarity matters less for ruby than for diamond. Almost all rubies contain some inclusions, and a fine ruby is judged mainly on how beautiful its color is.

Ruby, garnet or spinel?

Several red gems can look similar at a glance. Garnet is usually darker and more brownish or purplish, and softer than ruby. Red spinel can be bright and beautiful, and is often confused with ruby historically.

Ruby stands out for its hardness, its strong red fluorescence under certain light, and its long history as one of the most valued gems in the world. When you buy a yellow gold ruby ring from us, the appraisal names the stone clearly, so you know exactly what it is.

The ruby

The center is an oval ruby of saturated red with a slightly purplish tone, the color traditionally most prized in ruby. It is held in slender yellow gold claws that disappear against the warm band.

Most rubies on the market have been heated to improve their color and clarity, a long-accepted and permanent practice. The written appraisal for this ring records what is known about the stone, and we are always happy to talk it through.

Ruby is the birthstone for July and the traditional gift for a 40th wedding anniversary, so a ruby ring can carry more than one meaning.

The oval shape suits the cluster well. It is slightly longer than it is wide, so the ring of diamonds around it forms a soft oval flower rather than a perfect circle, which flatters the finger and makes the ruby look a little larger than a round stone of the same weight.

What it means to buy an estate ring

An estate ring is simply one that has been owned before. Estate pieces are often the best way to find the character of earlier jewelry making: hand-set clusters, old-cut diamonds and mixed-metal construction that are rarely made today.

Pre-owned jewelry can show gentle signs of its history, such as light wear on the band. We will look at the ring with you under magnification and point out anything noteworthy before you buy.

Buying estate is also good value. A pre-owned ring is typically priced below what it would cost to make new with the same materials, and it has already proven it can be worn.

The romance of an antique style engagement ring

Part of the appeal of an antique style engagement ring is the feeling that it carries a story. The cluster design, the old-cut diamonds and the mixed metals all belong to a tradition of hand-made jewelry that feels personal in a way that mass-produced rings rarely do.

A ring like this also stands apart. Most engagement rings today are modern round brilliants in high prong settings. A vintage ruby engagement ring with old-cut diamonds looks different from across a room, and it is unlikely anyone else will be wearing one like it.

And because it is an estate piece, it is also a sustainable choice: nothing new was mined or made to create it.

Wedding bands for a ruby halo ring

The slim band of this ruby halo ring makes pairing easy. A plain 18kt yellow gold band of similar width sits neatly beside it and keeps the look classic.

A thin band of old-cut or small round diamonds echoes the cluster and adds sparkle. For a vintage feel, a band with milgrain edges or light engraving suits the style of the ring beautifully.

Because the cluster is round and fairly low, most straight bands sit close to it without a gap. Bring in a band you are considering, or try some of ours, and we will show you how they look together.

Proposing with a ruby

A ruby says something a diamond does not. It is bold, warm and full of meaning, and it suits someone who loves color or has a strong sense of their own style.

If you are planning a proposal, it helps to know the ring size. Borrowing a ring worn on the same finger, or asking a close friend, is the easiest way. If you are unsure, it is fine to propose and have the ring resized afterwards.

A ruby halo ring is also a meaningful choice for someone born in July, or for a couple marking a 40th anniversary.

How to judge a vintage ruby engagement ring in person

Start with the ruby's color. Look at it in daylight and under indoor light. A fine ruby stays a rich red in both, rather than turning dark or brownish.

Next, look at the cluster. The diamonds should be evenly spaced around the ruby, and each should sit securely in its setting. Old-cut diamonds vary slightly in size and shape; that variation is part of their charm.

Then look at the band, especially at the back of the finger, where wear shows first on any ring that has been loved for years.

Finally, put it on. A cluster ring always looks different on the hand than in a photograph, and the slim band makes the head read larger when worn.

Wearing and caring for an old cut diamond cluster ring

Ruby and diamond are both very hard, so an old cut diamond cluster ring like this suits everyday wear with sensible care. Take it off for the gym, gardening and heavy cleaning, and put it on after lotion and hairspray.

To clean it, soak the ring briefly in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, brush gently under the cluster with a soft toothbrush, rinse and pat dry. Our jewelry care guide has more detail.

Have the claws and settings checked once or twice a year; on an estate piece this is especially worthwhile. We offer complimentary cleaning and inspection for jewelry bought from our store.

Seeing this vintage ruby engagement ring in Boca Raton

Ruby color is best judged in person, in different light. You are welcome to try this vintage ruby engagement ring on at our Boca Raton showroom and look at the ruby and diamonds under a loupe.

We are open Monday to Friday, 9:30 to 5:30, and Saturday, 10:30 to 4:30. Directions are on our Visit Us page.

David Stern Jewelers has served Boca Raton for over 40 years. David Stern is a GIA Graduate Gemologist, so detailed questions about the ruby and old-cut diamonds can be answered on the spot.

Sizing, appraisal and insurance

This ring can be sized to fit. The band is slim and plain, so sizing is usually straightforward; we will look at it with you and confirm before any work is done.

It includes a written jewelry appraisal by David Stern, which describes the ruby, the diamonds and the gold and gives a replacement value for insurance.

More ruby and estate jewelry

See our estate ruby cocktail ring, our cushion ruby necklace, or browse all our engagement rings.

Questions about this vintage ruby engagement ring