2.35 CT Cushion Sapphire Couture Ring in Platinum

This cushion sapphire ring is an estate piece in platinum, built around a 2.35 carat cushion-cut blue sapphire. The sapphire sits in a fine milgrain bezel and is framed by a double halo of round brilliant diamonds, 1.90 carats in total, bead-set in a scalloped outline. It is a pre-owned ring with a vintage look, and everything below describes this exact piece, which you can see at our Boca Raton showroom.

The cushion sapphire ring at a glance

Here are the specifications of this cushion sapphire ring, as recorded for this piece.

The center stone is a cushion-cut blue sapphire of 2.35 carats. It is slightly elongated, a rectangle with softly rounded corners, and set lengthwise along the finger.

Around it are two rows of round brilliant cut diamonds, 1.90 carats in total, graded H to I color and SI1 clarity. Together with the sapphire, the ring carries 4.25 carats of gemstones.

The metal is platinum. Our listing records the ring at size 5 and 8.4 grams, and it can be resized to fit.

This is an estate ring, meaning it has had a previous owner, and it comes with a written appraisal.

Why a cushion-cut sapphire

The cushion cut is one of the oldest faceting styles in jewelry. It has a square or rectangular outline with rounded corners, like a pillow, and larger facets than a modern round brilliant.

On a sapphire, those larger facets do something important: they show off color. Instead of breaking the light into tiny pinpoints, a cushion returns it in broader flashes, so the blue reads as rich and saturated across the whole face of the stone.

That is why so many of the most famous sapphire rings use cushion-cut centers, and why a cushion sapphire ring remains one of the most requested styles. A cushion sapphire ring has a softer, more classic look than an oval or emerald cut, and it pairs naturally with vintage-style settings like this one.

The International Gem Society has a good overview of cushion cuts and how they differ from modern brilliant cuts.

The color of the sapphire

The sapphire is a clear, bright medium blue, lively rather than inky. In the photographs you can see flashes of lighter blue across the facets and deeper blue toward the edges, which is exactly what a well-cut cushion should do.

Sapphire is a variety of the mineral corundum and ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond. The Gemological Institute of America explains that the most valued sapphires show a pure, strongly saturated blue without being too dark, and that color is the single most important factor in their value.

Most sapphires sold today have been heated to improve their color, a long-accepted and permanent treatment. The written appraisal for this ring records what is known about the stone, and we are always happy to talk it through when you visit.

A blue sapphire is also the birthstone for September and the traditional gift for a 45th wedding anniversary, which makes a platinum sapphire ring like this a natural choice for either occasion.

A double halo sapphire ring

The setting is what gives this platinum sapphire ring its character. The sapphire is surrounded by two complete rows of round diamonds, one inside the other, which is what jewelers call a double halo sapphire ring.

The inner row follows the rectangular outline of the cushion closely. The outer row swells into a gently scalloped, rounded frame, so the whole head of the ring is softer and larger than the stone alone. From the front, the diamonds form a continuous border of light around the blue.

Each diamond is bead-set, held by tiny raised grains of metal rather than prongs, and the rows are separated by fine milgrain edges. That beaded, lace-like texture is typical of fine platinum work in the early twentieth century, and it is a large part of why this double halo sapphire ring looks the way it does.

A double halo also makes a center stone look larger. The two rows of diamonds extend the face of the ring well beyond the sapphire, so the whole piece reads as a substantial cocktail ring rather than a small solitaire.

The diamonds: 1.90 carats, H to I, SI1

The two halos of this sapphire and diamond ring hold 1.90 carats of round brilliant diamonds in total. They are graded H to I color, which is near-colorless, and SI1 clarity, which means slightly included.

In practice that means the diamonds face up white against the platinum, and their inclusions are not visible to the eye when the ring is worn. Our guide to diamond color shows where H and I sit on the scale.

The diamonds are there to frame the sapphire, not to compete with it. Their job is to give the blue a bright, clean border, and in a sapphire and diamond ring that is what matters most.

For more on how diamonds are graded, see our guide to the diamond 4Cs.

The bezel and the openwork gallery

The sapphire is held in a bezel, a thin collar of platinum that wraps the entire edge of the stone. A bezel is one of the most protective ways to set a gem, because no corner of the sapphire is left exposed to knocks.

The bezel is finished with milgrain, the same fine beaded edge used between the diamond rows, which ties the center to the halos visually.

Underneath, the head is pierced with openwork, a pattern of cut-outs you can see in the side views. Openwork keeps the ring lighter than a solid head would be, lets light reach the underside of the stones, and gives the profile a delicate, hand-finished look.

The head then sits on a plain platinum band that tapers slightly toward the back of the finger, which keeps it comfortable despite the size of the top.

Why a platinum sapphire ring

Platinum is the classic metal for fine gem-set rings, and for good reason. It is dense, strong and naturally white, so it holds small bead-set diamonds securely and never needs replating the way white gold does.

A platinum sapphire ring also wears differently from gold. When platinum is scratched, the metal moves rather than being lost, so the ring keeps its weight over decades. Over time it develops a soft satin patina, which some owners love and others have polished away; either is easy.

Platinum is also naturally hypoallergenic, which makes it a good choice for anyone with sensitive skin.

At 8.4 grams, this platinum sapphire ring has a solid, reassuring weight on the hand, and the metal is strong enough to support two full halos of bead-set diamonds.

What it means to buy an estate sapphire ring

An estate sapphire ring is simply one that has been owned before. Estate pieces are often the only way to find the craftsmanship of earlier decades, such as fine milgrain, bead-setting and openwork galleries, which are time-consuming and costly to reproduce today.

Before you buy an estate sapphire ring, it is worth having it checked closely. When you visit, we will look at it with you under magnification: the security of each stone, the condition of the bezel and beads, and the integrity of the band.

Pre-owned jewelry can show gentle signs of its history, such as light wear on the band or softened milgrain. We point out anything noteworthy before you buy, and many buyers see that character as part of the appeal of an estate sapphire ring.

Buying estate is also a sensible way to own a larger piece. Because the ring is pre-owned, it is typically priced below what it would cost to make new with the same platinum, sapphire and diamonds.

Sapphire and diamond ring or engagement ring?

This sapphire and diamond ring works equally well as a statement cocktail ring or as an engagement ring for someone who prefers color to a white diamond.

As an engagement ring, it has real advantages. Sapphire is hard enough for daily wear, the bezel protects the center, and platinum is the most durable metal for a ring that will be worn every day. A blue sapphire engagement ring also has a long tradition and a very distinctive look.

As a cocktail ring, its scale and double halo make it a piece that is noticed from across the room. It is especially striking worn alone on the right hand.

Either way, the head is broad, so plan to wear any wedding band with a little space, or try a slim band against it in our showroom to see how they sit together.

How to judge a cushion sapphire ring in person

When you look at any cushion sapphire ring, start with the color. Hold it at arm's length in daylight, then under indoor light. A good blue sapphire stays blue in both, rather than turning dark or gray indoors.

Next, look for windowing: a washed-out, see-through patch in the middle of the stone where light passes straight through. A well-cut cushion returns light across its whole face, and the center of this sapphire shows lively blue flashes rather than a flat window.

Then look at the setting. On a double halo sapphire ring, the diamonds in each row should be evenly sized and evenly spaced, with the milgrain crisp and unbroken. Turn the ring over and check the underside of the head, where the openwork should be clean and smooth.

Finally, put it on. A cushion sapphire ring with a broad double halo looks very different on the hand than in a photograph, and the only way to know whether its scale suits you is to wear it for a few minutes.

Wearing an estate sapphire ring every day

Although the ring has the scale of a cocktail ring, it is built to be worn. The bezel protects the sapphire, platinum holds the diamonds securely, and the band is plain and comfortable.

A few habits will keep an estate sapphire ring looking its best. Take it off for heavy work, the gym and gardening, and put it on after lotions and hairspray rather than before. Store it on its own in a soft pouch so the diamonds cannot scratch other jewelry.

Bead-set diamonds are secure, but the tiny beads can wear down over many years. We recommend having a jeweler look at the halos once or twice a year, which takes only a few minutes.

Seeing this cushion sapphire ring in Boca Raton

Sapphire color changes with the light, and a ring with this much detail is best judged in person. You are welcome to try this cushion sapphire ring on at our Boca Raton showroom, look at the sapphire and the milgrain under a loupe, and see how the blue shifts between daylight and indoor light.

We are open Monday to Friday, 9:30 to 5:30, and Saturday, 10:30 to 4:30. Directions are on our Visit Us page.

David Stern Jewelers has served Boca Raton for over 40 years. David Stern is a GIA Graduate Gemologist, so detailed questions about the sapphire, the diamonds and the ring's construction can be answered on the spot.

Sizing, appraisal and care

The ring is listed at size 5. Platinum can be resized by a skilled jeweler, and because the diamonds sit in the head rather than down the band, this ring can usually be sized up or down without disturbing them. We will look at it with you and confirm before any work is done.

This ring includes a written jewelry appraisal by David Stern, which describes the sapphire, the diamonds and the platinum and gives a replacement value for insurance. For a piece of this value, we recommend scheduling it on your insurance separately.

To clean it, soak the ring briefly in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, brush gently under the head with a soft toothbrush, rinse and pat dry. Our jewelry care guide has more detail. Have the beads and bezel checked every so often; we offer complimentary cleaning and inspection for jewelry bought from our store.

More sapphire rings from David Stern Jewelers

If you love sapphire but want a different look, see our sapphire cabochon ring or our sapphire ballerina ring. You can browse all our rings or our engagement rings.

Questions about this cushion sapphire ring